Springfield Top

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This is the Springfield Top by Cashmerette. It is the first time I tried a Cashmerette pattern and I know I will try some more. I have been frustrated figuring out sizing for a large bust and my full bust adjustments have not really worked out so far.

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I cut out a size 12 with the EF cup. I added a half inch to the length but otherwise no changes were made.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES I made View B because I like the details and wanted a more fitted look.

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The pattern gives me plenty of bust room without pulling the side seam forward which happens too much. It also gives great coverage to the underarm area so I don’t have to show my bra off when I move my arms.

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I love this fabric! I didn’t discover it until well after everyone else had bought it up. I searched all over for it and bought the last yard and a few inches that was left. I’m glad I saved it for this top. I did have to use store-bought bias tape since I was limited on yardage.

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I will definitely make more of these. You can tell by my farmer’s tan I didn’t wear sleeveless tops this year.  I am wearing the Springfield top with my Colette Mabel skirt.

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Seamwork Akita

I fell in love with the patterns in the September Seamwork magazine. This is the Akita blouse. I tend to always pick solid colors in clothes because I feel uncomfortable in prints. I loved the colors in this print so I decided to try something different.

The fabric was pretty wide so I folded it differently than is shown in the cutting layout in the hopes of getting a second top out of it.

I fussed too long with getting my fold straight and then realized I could have gotten a few more inches out of it but I didn’t want to do anymore fussing. A smaller person could get another blouse out of it but I don’t think it will be enough for me. If you hadn’t already thought of it and you have wide fabric give it a try.

The sewing instructions have you clip the seam allowances in order to hem the sleeves and create the slits at the side bottom. I was a little worried about doing that so I reinforced the area by sewing a short line of smaller stitches just inside the seam line.

I clipped all the way in once I did that. I’ll sew a shorter line next time I make this because the stitches show on the folded edge of the armhole but with this fabric it is not noticeable.

I cut out a size 12 but cut the neckline along the size 10 lines. I also added a half inch into the neck at the shoulder to avoid having my bra straps hanging out.

I tried it on with a skirt and chain belt to dress it up but I don’t care for my mix with the black skirt.

But it is a great pattern to make with different fabrics for different looks.

I’m really happy with how it turned out. Still uncomfortable with the print though. I hope to make the Moji pants also but I haven’t decided on a fabric yet.

Aster

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This is my Colette Aster. I decided to do the sew-a-long even though I am not a button up shirt wearing girl. I only have one that is huge and I use it as a light jacket. Otherwise I don’t feel they are flattering on me.  That said, I wanted to make this shirt and so I did.

I had some struggles getting this done and likely would have stuck it at the bottom of the to-do pile if not for the sew-a-long. I made a muslin in a size 12 and it seemed a little large so I made a 10 with an FBA. I did the FBA (full bust adjustment) and also lengthened the front and back bodice. I made a muslin and it turned out really well.  I decided to do version 2 and actually had to redo the FBA for the correct version. I then made the shirt and the bust was huge and very pointy. I picked out the stitches and tried so many different ways to make the darts look less obvious. Nothing was working. I even tried gathering the dart fabric but there was still way too much fabric over the bust. I ended up undoing the side seams, laying the size 10 pattern piece over the bodice and I recut it it without the FBA. I still have some issues with the darts but this worked much better. The FBA is still a mystery to me. With a DDD bust I surely need the FBA but it hasn’t worked for me yet. One day I will figure out what I am doing wrong.

I wanted my shoulder pleats to be perfect. I remembered when I went to school a hundred years ago we were taught to baste all the pleat lines to get them perfect. It takes a little extra time but I felt more confident when it came time to sew the pleats down.

basting

You still need to sew a straight line. ha! I may have had to un-pick one tuck and do it over but in the end I was happy with how they turned out.

I used vintage bias tape for the neckline and decided to hem it the same way. I also used vintage mother of pearl buttons from my stash to finish it off.

I’m glad I made the long sleeved version since fall is approaching rather quickly. It was even cool enough to photograph this and not break a sweat even though it is mid August.

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I’m glad I stuck with it because I think it turned out pretty cute!

Seabrook

This is the Seabrook bag from the July Issue of Seamwork Magazine . I have been wanting to make something out of this vintage fabric I have and this bucket bag seemed like the perfect thing. I found some barkcloth drapes at an estate sale a few months back and fell in love with the floral pattern. They weren’t good enough for using as drapes anymore. Parts were dry rotted or stained but lots of it is still perfect for other projects.

I only spent 88 cents for fabric for this project after using the last few dollars on a gift card. The grommets and cord were the most expensive part and that cost around $15. Oh, I bought thread too. The dark denim is the fabric I bought. I used a remnant from another project for the lining. I had to piece it together because I was not using my brain when I cut it. Since I used different fabrics for the outside I forgot that I needed all three pieces cut for the lining. I had enough dark denim to finish it and I kind of like it. It has reversible potential. You would have to use the cording differently though.

There was a section of the drapes that was long enough for the main body of the purse. There were two large floral sections that fit within the pattern piece. Unfortunately the flowers both meet at the back and the front is bare.

I considered adding a pocket or appliqueing a flower in that spot but in the end I decided to leave it as is. If I change my mind I can still add something with hand stitching.

I hadn’t worked with grommets before so that was fun. My shoulder and neck felt a bit beat up after all that pounding. I reread the section in Seamwork about adding grommets but only when I was ready to put them in so I didn’t think to add any interfacing and I wish I had. If I make this again I will mark the spots where the grommets go and put some squares of interfacing in place before I even start sewing the purse.

I made the cord stopper out of the denim fabric.

I’m happy with the way this bag turned out! If you aren’t already a subscriber to Seamwork you should check it out. It is a beautiful magazine and it has some really cute patterns, many of which are on my to do list.

Sewing Again

Hello! This is the first article of clothing I have made in a really long time. I have been wanting to start sewing clothes again for a few years and had a couple false starts but didn’t get anything completed until this year.  I am trying to figure out what size I am in commercial patterns these days and what pattern alterations I need to do. I also don’t know which styles and patterns will be good for my over 50 self.

I made a few muslins for some fitted tops but just got frustrated and quit. Finally I saw this Myrtle pattern from Colette and knew I had to make it. I was happy that I finally completed something and had little difficulty with fitting.  I only added a little to the bodice length since I am long waisted… or so I thought. I may have added more than I needed but it still works.

I learned to sew when I was very young. I collected scraps of fabric off the sewing room (basement) floor when my mom was sewing and made little wrap dresses and ponchos for my plastic animals and miniature dolls. I was making my own clothes in no time and that included zippers and set in sleeves.

I copied my prom dress from a picture I saw in Cosmopolitan Magazine.

1980 magazine page

My version

I studied fashion design and dressmaking for two years and I loved it. Here are a couple pics from way back when.

Then I worked in a bridal shop doing alterations for a few years. After that I barely sewed a thing. I don’t know why. I made curtains and simple projects but stopped making clothes.  The past couple years I have been reading sewing blogs and becoming interested in making clothes again. My sister sent me a subscription to Threads magazine hoping to inspire me. So now I am finally sewing. I want to refresh my skills and gain many new ones. I also want to stop lurking and become more involved in the sewing community. I love seeing what everyone is sewing and have become more and more inspired. I have few things in the works. Thanks for visiting my new blog!!  I’m really excited to start sewing again!

Oh, I made a Mabel too!

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Colette Mabel